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Sublime Sushi

Dara writes:

I made a reservation for me and James for Valentine's Day only two weeks in advance, so I knew I could not hit up the usual romantic New York suspects. Instead, I chose a sushi restaurant considered sublime by those in the know, but not flashy like Nobu, Megu, Masa, Morimoto. I chose Sushi Yasuda, on a Little Tokyo block near the UN.

From the second we walked in, at an early 6pm (even two weeks ahead I could only secure an early reservation), I knew we were in for an experience. The sushi chefs, all five of them, heartily greeted us, as did the staff. We sat at the sushi bar, where a Hawaiian tea leaf garnished with ginger and wasabi was promptly placed in front of us. A server brought over warm towels so we could wash our hands because, as as I learned that night, sushi can be eaten with ones hands. (What an ideal beginning for a germaphobe like me!) We ordered dry cold sake and two kinds of fish to start: flash-fried striped bass with pickled radish on top, and sake-soaked black cod. Both were outstanding. The second we finished the plates, servers whisked them away. The second I took more than three sips from my water, it was replenished. I have read that service, for example in department stores, in Japan is phenomenal. I had my first taste of it that night.

Basically, we had our own private sushi chef. He would give us a piece of sushi, we would eat it, muse about what we wanted next, and then he would prepare it for us. What a delightful way to eat! I can't say it was the most romantic meal, since it was almost like eating in a kitchen, but it was a way to learn about fish, knife work, and Japanese traditions. We ordered Spanish mackerel, yellowtail, giant clam, sea urchin, squid, cuttlefish, and a toro scallion roll. The roll was the only thing we dipped in soy sauce. The chef prepared the fish in a bit of sauce or sea salt and told us simply to pick it up with our hands and eat it. The fish was clean and delicious, on perfectly warm sushi rice.

The standouts: toro was buttery and divinely rich. We asked the chef's recommendation to end the meal, and he gave us two heavenly chunks of Alaskan crab, decorated with squeezed lemon and sea salt. Sweet and luscious. But here were my two favorites: a sea scallop from Massachusetts and white freshwater eel. I had never had raw scallops before; these were so sweet and succulent. The chef apparently prizes domestic fish, and this was an excellent specimen. The chef's press materials say he is an eel expert, and I would corroborate that from the eel I tasted, the best I have ever tasted. Usually sushi eel is kind of hard and blocklike, apparently because chefs re-heat the eel in a toaster oven. Our chef took raw eel and cooked it in front of us on a small grill. The result was the kindest, tastiest, most tender flesh. Changed the way I think about that sea creature.

The second we told the chef we were full our tea leaf was withdrawn, our plates carried off. We received a complimentary brown tea and the bill. Expensive, but worth every penny. The cheapest trip to Tokyo I can imagine. When I went to the restroom on the way out and heard someone speaking English, I was thoroughly disoriented.

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New Haven's Chez Panisse

Dara writes:

When I resided in Berkeley College at Yale University in the mid-90s, the dining hall food was so abysmal I moved off campus. The dingy, co-ed bathroom, minute cubicle with bunk beds I shared with my roommate, and the rodents didn't help either. All that has changed. Not only have most residential colleges at Yale undergone total renovations, but my college's dining hall has become a model for sustainable, local, and mostly organic food.

James and I have taken so many car trips lately to see his father, that we have taken to listening to Podcasts. Several recent ones were from a Princeton conference on food and ethics, which took place last November. Panelists repeatedly mentioned the Yale Sustainable Food Project as a model.

The daughter of Alice Waters, the chef who was instrumental in the "eat seasonal and local" movement, matriculated at Yale and inspired her mother to urge more organic dining. What has happened at the residential college Berkeley is staggering. The menu sounds amazing, it is seasonal, and some of it comes from a farm that is a fifteen minute walk from campus. The farm takes summer interns and I was kind of sad to learn the interns must be undergrads.

Unfortunately being on the road so much has meant a steady diet of McDonald's Snack Wraps: crispy chicken, jack cheese, lettuce, and ranch dressing in a tortilla. My theory is it is small enough to not make me sick, or for that matter thirsty for three days because of the amount of salt McDonald's pours on its food.

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Bruni throws another hand grenade Meyer's way

Dara writes:

Bring it on, Bruni!

And bring it, he did. Oh yes, the fight continues between NYC restaurateur and NY Times chief restaurant critic Frank Bruni in this week's "Dining" section.

As I have written here and here, there is a war going on between Danny Meyer and Frank Bruni. In his book on the restaurant business, "Setting the Table," Danny Meyer laments how Frank Bruni awarded Meyer's most ambitious restaurants, Eleven Madison Park and The Modern, only two stars. Mr. Meyer felt Mr. Bruni did not give them a chance to evolve before (relatively) slamming them.

Alas, two weeks ago in The New York Times, Mr. Bruni awarded these two restaurants three stars. Hooray! Except Bruni took the opportunity to demote Meyer's most famous restaurants, Gramercy Tavern and Union Square Cafe--a back-handed compliment if ever I have seen one.

In last week's "Dining" section, Mr. Meyer's friends came to his aid by trumpeting, in an ad, the first "six star" review ever in the history of The Times: three stars each for Eleven and Modern. And now, in today's "Dining" section, Bruni lobs a grenade.

In his article today entitled "You May Kiss the Chef's Napkin Ring," Bruni excoriates the latest trend of chefs to conduct their restaurants as temples to themselves. By promoting ten-course tasting menus and blasting their iPod playlists, chefs are preoccupied with their own predilections and desires, not those of their accolytes--I mean, customers. Somehow, although Mr. Meyer is not a chef, Mr. Bruni makes him a prime target of his article, even including a picture of Tabla as Exhibit A in the hubris of restaurant people.

Mr. Bruni whines:

After the restaurateur Danny Meyer’s “Setting the Table” was published last fall, he propped up copies right inside the front doors of Gramercy Tavern, Eleven Madison Park and Tabla, where the book was also displayed above the bar, just to be safe.

Mr. Meyer isn’t a chef. He’s essentially a host, renowned for his humility and hospitality, for rounding out your meal with a prettily wrapped coffeecake for breakfast the next morning.

And yet he set things up so that when you walked into one of his restaurants, your first encounter wasn’t necessarily with a host or a hostess saying hello or taking your coat. It was with a photograph of him on a self-flattering book (“America’s most innovative restaurateur,” trumpets the cover) about how he always puts you, the customer, first.

For one thing, Mr. Meyer is an excellent, skilled writer, and I would put him to test with Bruni any day. For another, how does Meyer's promotion of his book oppose or even exclude his concern for his customers? I'm sure many of them over the years have wondered about how he has done such an amazing job in such a tough city, and many would be interested in learning his philosophy.

Bruni's direct challenge of Meyer's "humility" is ad hominem. I am interested to see where Meyer takes this mano a mano next.

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